Cruising the Mayan Water World

Nothing compares to exploring a new travel destination with a local.

I am seated in a quiet palapa-roofed restaurant called “Oscar & Lalo’s” with owner Virginia Gonzalez. She is an entrepreneur and explorer, as well as restaurateur. Just beyond compound walls, traffic races along Carretera Federal 307, transportation backbone linking Cancun to Belize along Mexico’s Riviera Maya.

Family Tradition

When not greeting guests, and creating new dishes, Virginia hosts overland and underwater expeditions through the richly-layered Caribbean biosphere. She comes by these interests and abilities naturally.

“My father opened the restaurant in 1981. But he was also a fisherman, scuba diver, and an explorer,” she explains.

Born and schooled in the US, Virginia returned to Tulum to carry on a family tradition. Now, in addition to serving up delicious ceviche, camarones and pescados, she and her staff lead tours through 3 unique aquatic habitats just minutes away from her busy kitchen.

Next morning, in a cool, comfortable van, loaded with essential gear, drinks and snacks, I embark on one of these “small group, shared expeditions.” Cordial driver Julio, savvy guide Andy and a pair of lively twins from LA complete the party. On route to our first swim site we learn about the complexity and fragility of local environments amid pressures being applied by the recent tourist boom.

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Three Water Worlds

We begin at a lazy river in a mangrove forest. A snowy egret observes our arrival, then gracefully departs. Clear, brackish water is almost warm. Beneath the surface bright blue, green and yellow fish hover between chunky roots. Large blue crabs play hide and seek among the stones. We keep an eye out for “Ponchito” the non-threatening, resident crocodile who has apparently sought higher ground following recent rains. This gentle waterway links fresh water from land to salt water of the nearby Caribbean Sea.

Next stop is a sandy beach. Here we board a sturdy motorboat which speeds us a few hundred yards offshore. While the skipper idles, we plunge into the choppy sea 20 feet above the second largest coral reef in the world. It is home to over 500 species of aquatic life including massive, locally protected sea turtles. Sea fans wave back and forth with the surf, colorful fish including grunt, trumpet and butterfly dart about. A sizable head peers through a rock, then quickly retreats. Could it be a moray eel?

Finally, it’s time for the main event. Julio guides our van deep into the jungle following signs with provocative names. In a shady clearing, we descend a rustic wooden ladder into a limestone chamber (cenote) with a cool, slow moving river. Stalactites from the ceiling meet stalagmites rising through the water. Tour guide Andy shares history of this place considered sacred by the ancient Maya. We swim quietly, deeper into the darkening cave. Bats chitter above.

Sacred Pool

In an adjoining chamber, we stop for pictures at a broad, shadowy pool. It is illuminated in the center by sunlight spilling like a stairway to heaven through a large hole above. Crystals glitter in the ceiling. Rock formations millennia old resemble statuary. Andy points out one that seems to outline a delicate Madonna and Child. There is an other-worldliness about this place that defies description.

Our adventure ends back at the restaurant where host Virginia has prepared a sumptuous 4 course lunch. We are refreshed, restored and now charged with a new respect for nature’s delicate balance along the Riviera Maya. To experience it for yourself contact customerservice@riveria-aventours.com. Ask Virginia about senior discounts.