Cenote Hunters on Wheels

(See video below of Chip rappelling into an underground river through an open cenote)

There is a new family of Hunters. These folks are not game stalkers or predators, even though they do like to eat. They are inquisitive travelers, mostly from the States, not bound by genealogy but by common interests. They call themselves the “Cenote Hunters” and I joined them on one of their recent pursuits.

Cenotes are natural sinkholes resulting from collapsing limestone exposing groundwater. They are frequently found in caves. Once cenotes were the only fresh water source for Mayans living in the jungles of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. This was one of the reasons these underground caverns, connected to rivers, were considered sacred and home to ancient gods. Today they are meccas for travelers from around the world. No one seems to know how many cenotes there are along the Riviera Maya. More and more are discovered every day.

We caught up with this adventurous crowd near a popular tourist destination called “Dos Ojos” which translates to “Two Eyes” in English and is exactly what the spot looks like when seen from above by a drone. The declared purpose of these explorers is to locate cenotes up and down Highway 307, the north/south four lane corridor connecting Cancun to Belize and points all around.

We meet our guide Josse, a transplant from Provence, France and load up into two sturdy ATV`s. Holding on tight, but of course without seat belts, we traverse four miles of rocky roads into the Mayan outback. No one I know, except those I am with, not even Peg, has a clue where I am. And I have no clue where we are going.

We penetrate thick tropical forest on a surprisingly well groomed road, rising over rocky crests and plunging through puddles. We pass numerous “rancheros” with hand-stacked stone walls and frequently pull over to share the one lane road with worker-filled pickups. The teeth chattering ride makes me giddy.

After about 20 minutes we arrive at our base of operations. Josse makes sure all are well-equipped. Life vests (if wanted), masks, snorkels. No fins. No insect repellent. He provides a quick brief on what lies ahead.

We descend a substantial stone staircase into a dark, shady pit. Our first swim will be in the partially open cenote called “La Bonita.” And it is indeed beautiful.

The water is brilliantly clear, tinged a tropical green hue. The bottom is easy to see. There is a small gauge rope near the bottom disappearing into the dark distance toward another slow moving river. We stretch our aquatic wings but stay close together. The swim is casual and stress free. I feel as though we are in someone’s backyard. Which actually we are.

Our group is then directed to a completely enclosed cave.

“El Celestial” is definitely other worldly. There are strategically situated lights which help the water glow, and cast dramatic shadows across the ceiling spiked with stalagtites. Each swimmer is given a waterproof flashlight as we enter the cool marine environment and absorb an oddly soothing, but eerie ambiance.

I swim peacefully, quietly admiring this strange world. For a while I bond with a small catfish cruising the pale, sandy bottom. Then I join the group for more lessons on formation of the rock structures each of which took thousands of years to grow, composition of the water surrounding us, and how vibrant stalks of grass flourish in this solar-deprived environment.

Black bats dangle indulgently from the spiky ceiling, occasionally flying away one at a time for quieter quarters. As we prepare to depart Josse speaks again about the fragility of this ecosystem and its rapid deterioration.

This outing is capped off by a tasty lunch buffet of familiar, local fare. My new “Hunter” family sits in an open air structure which appears to be the beginning of a fine residence. We compare notes about what we have seen and learned, talk about the next adventure and brace ourselves for the bumpy road home.

Here’s another cenote challenge conquered by the Hunters . Watch as Chip lowers himself (with much capable assistance) into an underground cave and river at Yax Muul near Tulum. What an experience!

To learn more about this and other crowd-free Mayan jungle experiences leave a comment below with a request for info. The chiptracks.net crew will be back to you soon.

All photos and videos courtesy of Cenote Hunters members.