Welcome to QRO

I’m sitting beneath a bower of intricately woven shade trees and enjoying a second cup of coffee.  There is an inviting basket of “pan dulce” before me, crisp linen, sparkling tableware and I am trying to decide what to have for breakfast.  But all I can do is breathe the fragrant air and watch the passing parade in Queretero (QRO).

An attentive, demure server stands nearby. He is in no hurry, neither are the smartly dressed pedestrians on their way to work.  It is the middle of July, and there is a freshening breeze, the temperature is in the low 60’s.

The day is just beginning in the “Plaza de Armas,” at the old city center of Queretero, even though it’s nearly 10 AM.  The Government’s Palace is just across the park with the Judicial Palace nearby.  This is the seat of government for a city over 600 years old, but it has the relaxed air of a rural village.

The Palace was once a home for royals, then a prison, and is recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site reflecting its pivotal role in Mexico’s long march from colonial suppression to Independence.  I am in the heart of the “Centro Historico.”  I will soon pay less than 8 bucks for my full breakfast (fruit, juice, pan, “huevos sierra,” spicy beans and cactus) at a handsome restaurant and be on my way.

Things to Do

Queretero (QRO) is both a city and a state.  It offers a wide range of environments from semi-arid desert flatlands to elegant mountain retreats.  It is a place of history, dynamic commerce and eco-tourism.  For the moment, the city is off the radar of Canadian and American ex-patriots in spite of its colorful heritage and efficient, international airport.  Right now I am departing for a visit to “Bell’s Hill,” site of the final dramatic moments in the life of Emperor Maximilian I whose brief, imperialistic reign ended by firing squad.

At every turn, the city vibrates with colorful history.  It is 2 hours by car from Mexico City and feels light years away from the hectic rat race. I have begun my stay in an Air BnB lodging facing a pedestrian-only thoroughfare.  Bougainville flowers drape across many house fronts.  Parents quietly converse with their children as they walk them to school. The aroma of fresh bread wafts through the neighborhood from a nearby “panadaria” and the colorful conversation of an unseen bird is the loudest sound I hear on my way from the restaurant.

It takes days to adequately absorb the art, the history, the culture of QRO.  One of the most striking features is a series of 74 towering stone arches forming an ancient aqueduct from one neighborhood to another.  And, there are numerous museums, squares and noble statues celebrating sacrifice and success through the ages.  Corregidora’s Square, the Conspirators’ Museum and House of don Bartolo (whose owner is reputed to have attained vast wealth through a pact with the devil) are high on most tourists “must see” lists.

This is also a university town, which probably explains the trendy vibe in various quarters of the city, particularly the “Centro Historico.”  Here there are chic boutiques, and hip shops dedicated to “must have” apparel for millennials with a special QRO flair. There are casually sophisticated coffee shops, music offerings that pulse well through the night, lots of pizza joints and pozole parlors.  There’s even a Youth Hostel where back-packing wanderers can catch a convivial break from their travels for about $12 a night.

Equally significant as the town itself, QRO is also a perfect base camp for world class side trips.  San Miguel de Allende is little more than an hour away. Guanajuato (home of the renowned Mummy Museum) is also an easy drive.  But our attention is drawn to “Magic Towns.”

There are five.  Bernal, Jalpan, San Joaquin, Cadereyta and Tequisquiapan are filled with charm and “magic,” which according to local literature is not illusory but must be “visited and admired” for its own sake. These towns have nothing to do with tricks or sleight of hand, or even Mickey, Minnie and Disney (all of which are seen everywhere).  But rather, these quiet destinations have guarded the qualities which characterize the culture and individual lifestyle of each locale in the state of Queretero.

A majestic stone outcropping called the “Pena” looms over Bernal.  It is said that a “spirit” resides inside this towering pinnacle. Tequisquipan is a quiet, comfortable place with an inviting plaza.  Cadereyta offers entry to numerous camp sites which embrace the eco-tourism mantra.  In each locale, there are colorful cathedrals, awe-inspiring sunsets, and gentle, gracious people.  The ambiance is decidedly magical.