The toe of Mexico’s geographical boot is called the Yucatan Peninsula. The Peninsula is mostly surrounded by water with the Caribbean flowing into the Atlantic to the East and the Gulf of Mexico to the West. It is a land mass which draws together three Mexican states: Quintana Roo, Yucatan and Campeche. To the south the Peninsula borders Central American countries Guatamala and Belize.
Few visitors travel the broad expanse known as Yucatan, preferring the noisy, crowded party atmosphere of Cancun and the coastal stretch known as Riviera Maya. Now, after two years we, Peg and Chip, decide to stretch our touristic wings, way away, across the Yucatan.
The trip from the Atlantic at Akumal Bay to the Gulf at the historic town of Campeche takes about 6 hours by car. This time it is slowed by massive construction related to the Mayan Train (AKA: Tren Maya OR Ysiimin K’AAK).
This nearly 1000 mile project is the national pride of Mexico’s current President Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, fondly known as “AMLO.” It is a huge undertaking generating strong support as well as open hostility from the Mexican population and is sure to remain the standout achievement of his presidency. Some critics call it an “environmental disaster.”
Tren Maya loops through the Peninsula connecting mostly tourist destinations including many historic Mayan sites. Launched in June 2020, it is scheduled to be completed in 2024. On this road trip around the Yucatan, we spend much of our drive fighting congestion associated with the project.
We pull in to Campeche late in the afternoon and are directed to our compact Airbnb sanctuary smack dab beside the coastal town’s broad Malecon or pier. This 6.3 km waterfront walkway/bike path is loaded with artwork and recognized as one of the longest in Mexico. We eat snacks for dinner but enjoy an eye-popping sunset over the quiet Gulf.
Next day we rise early, ready to take on all this colorful city has to show. We know there is lots to see. According to our minimal research…
“Campeche is… known for its preserved baroque colonial buildings, military architecture and walled historic district. In response to pirate attacks, the city was fortified in the 17th century and two hilltop forts built during that time are now museums. Forte de San Miguel holds the Campeche Archeological Museum, with artifacts from local Mayan sites like Edzna, Calakmul and Isla Jaina.” –Google
Our survey of Campeche starts early the next day. We had arrived with almost no appetite so we promised ourselves a good breakfast. Our AirBnB hostess recommends Marganzo Restaurant directly inside the walled city. Writeups on the restaurant promise Campeche favorites and indeed within the hour we pass admiring the historic streets the place is full. But we still receive lots of personal attention, and good food.
Peg dares to ask our server where he recommends we eat apart from there – gladly he tells us either La Pigua or La Palapa del Tio Fito. When we later find out La Palapa is right beside the Malecon: no contest. Having made our dinner decision we wander through the historic city for the rest of the day.
Fortunately we arrive at Palapa about 4:30 giving us time to order our meals and record spectacular sunsets over the Gulf just off “Campeche Caliente” – an unexpected treat. The restaurant closes soon after sunset, so we retire early to gather ourselves for next day activities.
Day Two in Campeche is highlighted by a visit to well-preserved Forte de San Miguel.
The fort is high on a nearby hill with wide, unobstructed view of the Gulf. At the time that it was built its strategic location and clever design provided a great view of approaching intruders, particularly pirates, and security for those within.
As described by a local tour guide, the Forte is “… a fantastic place to immerse in the Maya culture… providing a thorough glimpse of the rise and demise of the Maya civilization explained with artifacts and very easy to comprehend texts.”
Day Three is nearly completely dedicated to the Mayan ruin called Edzna
Riding into the Yucatan interior, we are blessed with good roads. It’s Palm Sunday, and we are among the very first of very few to visit. Peg meets a small family from Tabasco when she steps on an astounded iguana. No one is more astounded than Peg.
Expansive constructions stand firm and well preserved in dry jungle outcroppings. Picturing ancient populations living daily within inspires us to imagine a comedy sketch to lighten the certain difficulty life must have presented to these Mayans, (something like a Mexican version of The Flintstones, maybe… Mama Maya & Her Monkeys, or Jungle Jokers). It’s a stirring, stunning site which sets our creative juices flowing.
“The first evidence of dwellings on the archeological site called Edzna can be traced to 400 BC, when a community was established in this horseshoe shaped valley and agriculture was developed. Existing ruins indicate evolution of a well-organized society which erected massive buildings and developed a hydraulic system for agriculture and water for dwellings.
The community thrived during the period 400 to 1000 AD, but was ultimately abandoned around 1450. Today it is a well-groomed, peaceful complex about an hour’s drive from Campeche where not too many people go.
We highly recommend a trip to Campeche before completion of the Mayan Train when tourist crowds are sure to be much, much larger than now.
But anytime is probably a great time, because all the Mayan ruins, including Edzna have been here for a long, long time and will no doubt far outlast the AMLO Express.
All aboard?
