One Day is not enough for Valladolid

On a whim we decide to do a one night stayover in nearby Valladolid. We had heard about Spanish Colonial architecture in the Yucatan’s third largest city, its importance to the Mayan culture and proximity to important archeological ruins. But a bit more research would not have hurt.

The town was founded by Spanish in the mid-1500’s, who built churches over the former Mayan town called Zaci. It was the site of many rebellious clashes between Mayan descendents and prosperous landowners during the 19th century.foreshadowing the Mexican Revolution of 1910.

The drive on well-groomed roads from our home in Akumal takes about two hours. We pass many rancheros tucked away in the thick jungle, towns loaded with speed bumps called topes, and lots of carved wooden furniture.

We arrive in time for a stroll around the Parque la Mestiza/Zocalo facing the formidable Iglesia San Servacio, then enjoy lunch of local fare at the restaurant El Atrio del Mayab. Seated outside, in the restaurant’s shady garden Peggy and I admire a unique view of the centuries old Iglesia bell tower while enjoying flaky empanadas filled will local sausage called longanza and spinach-like chaya, (revered by Mayans for its medicinal properties) washed down by chilled jamaica tea.

We take advantage of free bicycles available at the Hotel Casa Bamboo where we check in for the night. The bikes enable efficient touring of the historic central district filled with shady parks in brilliantly colored neighborhoods and take us to the striking Convent of Saint Bernadine of Siena. Here Peggy pauses to consider what life must have been like inside a nunnery over four centuries ago.

Back at Casa Bamboo we turn in early and indulge our conflicting American football allegiances by watching a Mexican broadcast of the NFL Super Bowl. Rams beat the Bengals 23-20.

We welcome the next day early with another cruise through pastel painted neighborhoods which seem like a throwback in time. Finding numerous modestly priced “hostels” Chip is reminded of his earliest traveling days in Europe when meals and accommodations were cheap and backpacks were the height of fashion in luggage. A brief conversation with two German wanderers confirms that mode of travel remains in style.

We linger over breakfast in a 50 year old restaurant fronting a fountain splashed courtyard at El Meson del Marques. It’s Valentine’s Day and we are both lucky to be with our Sweetheart in this very special place. As elegant as this restaurant it is also a hot spot for hostel frequenters. On the morning we are there young bead-bangled, barefoot, natty-dreaded hipsters belly up to the handsomely set tables as we do. They speak in German, English and unfamiliar tongues munching on huevos con queso, roasted plantain, toasted tortillas con papaya marmalada just as enthusiastically as we do.

We then strike out on an entirely different adventure at the the fairly recently uncovered archeological ruins of Ek Balam.

Forty five different structures have been mapped on the Ek Balam site. It was a busy Mayan destination which may have been active right up to arrival of Spanish explorers in the 15th century. It is filled with artwork including full figure statues on the tomb of Ek Balam’s most powerful ruler Ukil-Kan-Lek-Tok. What it is not filled with is noisy tourists.

This well-groomed archeological destination is somewhat off the beaten daytrip excursion trail. So one is free to wander, and stop in wonder, without being pushed by an eager, impatient crowd. This in itself makes the site unique here on the Yucatan Peninsula. Even more unusual, one can actually climb the steep ruins. At many similar ancient sites scampering like local spider monkeys on historic sites is No Permitido.

We will be coming back to these great locations. But next time we will stay a little longer.